books on the history of fashion and design, etc.
La Femme, March 15, 1945. Image via Gallica, BnF
All free to access, as of when I listed them. Feel free to send me things to add, or let me know if a link is no longer functional.
Menswear:
- 1883-1901: Dr. Jaeger’s Sanitary Woolen System Co. Catalog for “Jaeger, the Standard Underwear of the World”.
- 1898: Rogers, Peet & Coy, 1898. New York retailer of shoes for men and boys.
- 1900, 1907-1908: B. Kuppenheimer & Co, 1900, 1907-1908. Chicago-based menswear manufacturer & retail, existed 1852-1997.
- 1907, 1916: Abercrombie & Fitch Co., 1907, 1916. Primarily handy for its men’s sportswear and outdoor clothes.
Womenswear:
1889: C. & W. May, Costume de Bals, c. 1889. “A trade catalog of dress patterns for costume balls, possibly for the 1889 Paris International Exposition.” C. & W. May was a London costume maker, existed from around 1880-1980.
1891: Deutsch & Co., 1891. New York womenswear retailer and furrier, active late 19th century.
Catalogue : fall and winter 1891.
1891: Le Boutillier Brothers, Fall and Winter, 1891-1892. New York-based womenswear retailer.
1899: Chicago House Wrecking Company, 1899. Mail-order catalog primarily helpful for womenswear and accessories.
1907-8: National Cloak & Suit Co, 1907-1908. New York womenswear retailer. Founded 1888, changed its name to National Bellas Hess in 1920s, functional til 1970s.
1909-1912: Atelier Gustave Lyon. New York and Berlin based couturier.
1915: Perry, Dame & Co, 1915, 1919. New York womenswear retailer, active in the early 20th century.
https://archive.org/search.php?query=creator%3A%22Perry%2C+Dame+%26+Co.%22
1950: Costume Color Council: Costume Color Council presents Costume Color Families for Fall, 1950. The color trends of the year as presented by a group of U.S. manufacturers.
Department Stores:
Bloomingdale’s, 1890. Founded in Cincinnati in 1861, still exists in New York City today.
Bronner’s Fashionable Clothing House, 1886. Buffalo, N.Y. clothing retailer, not sure when it closed.
Debenham’s, 1874. London-based, founded 1778, still active.
Eaton's, 1899-1969. Toronto-based, existed 1869-1999.
Gimbel Brothers, . Founded in Indiana, primarily active in New York and Philadelphia, 1887-1987.
1915: https://archive.org/details/gimbelholidayboo00gimb/mode/2up
1910:
Jordan Marsh and Co., 1880-1897. Boston-based, existed 1841-1996.
1896’s Coming Styles Designed by the Great Costumers of Europe is a particular treat.
Le Bon Marché, 1911. Paris-based, founded in 1852, still open today.
Liberty, 1911. London-based department store, known for its textile prints. Founded 1875, still open today.
Lord & Taylor, 1870. New York-based department store, founded in 1826, still here today.
Macy’s, . Founded in Cincinnati, 1858. Still open today in New York.
1877-78:
1905-1906:
Christmas 1906:
1911,
Marshall Field & Co., Founded in Chicago.
Montgomery Ward: Founded in Chicago.
1912 Spanish-language edition.
Newman and Levinson. San Francisco department store, not sure when active.
Sears: Founded in Chicago in 1893, still around today.
1901,
Siegel-Cooper. Founded in Chicago, expanded to New York. Existed from 1887-1930.
1898:,
Wanamaker’s: Philadelphia-based, existed 1861-1955.
1898, 1899:
Department Store Primary Sources:
1888: The Ladies' Paradise,
by Émile Zola, originally published in 1888.
1901: How Department Stores are Carried On, by W. B. Phillips, 1901.
1911: Department Store Accounts, by William Emmett Russell, 1911.
1913: Methods Used in Erecting a Modern Department Store in Chicago, by Hope Edwin Reum, 1913.
1914: Department Store Auditing & Accounting, by A. D. Davies, 1914; Department Store Statistics with the Aid of the Slide Rule, by Robert Bruce Schreffler, 1914.
1916: Department Store Occupations, by Iris Prouty O'Leary, 1916.
1917: The Cotton and Linen Departments, by Thompson, Eliza Bailey Thompson, Lee Galloway, and Beulah Elfreth Kennard, 1917. Manual for workers in cotton and linen departments of department stores.
- Operating Expenses in Department stores in 1921, by Harvard University Bureau of Business Research, 1922; Department Managers' Manual, 1922; Silk, by Eliza B. Thompson, 1922. Merchandise manual for workers in silk department of department stores.
- The Saleslady, by Frances R. Donovan, Frances R, 1929
- Shoppers' Special: The Way of Life in a Department Store, by Clyde Bedell, 1941
- The Negro in the Department Store Industry, by Charles R. Perry, 1971. A dated and often racially insensitive text, featuring statistics on African American workers in the department store industry.
Department Store Secondary Sources:
The Good Old Days: A History of American Morals and Manners as Seen through the Sears Roebuck Catalogs, 1905 to the Present, by David L. Cohn, 1940.
The Grand Emporiums: The Illustrated History of America's Great Department Stores, by Robert Hendrickson, 1979
A History of the Department Store, by John William Ferry, 1960
Land of Desire: Merchants, Power, and the Rise of a New American Culture, by William Leach, 1993
Merchant Princes: An Intimate History of Jewish Families Who Built Great Department Stores, by Leon A. Harris, 1980
Remembering Marshall Field's, by Leslie Goddard, 2011.